There are tons of indoor comps all over the country. That being the case I decided to write this little article about how to succeed at indoor competitions.
If you have never been to an ABS or other bouldering competition here is what you can expect: about 30-50 sick new boulder routes, a ton of climbers, a great time, and probably an entertaining finals to watch.
How they work
Every climber gets an individual scorecard that has all the boulder problems on it. As you climb different problems you will need to have 1-2 people sign off that you did that problem on your scorecard. Most comps take your top 5 scores.
I'll break this up for you in 3 sections before, during, and after the comp.
Set a Goal: Before the comp you should set a specific and measurable goal for yourself. A good goal might be I am going to climb 5 V5 routes or higher not I am going to climb my best'. Do you see that the first one is specific and measurable and the second is not, that is important.
Intend to have fun: Climbing competitions are a chance to test your abilities, climb with some great climbers, maybe win some prizes, and have fun. Few people win prizes at comps, this should not really be your intention.
We all climb because we love it so climb in a bouldering competition to learn and have fun and if you win some prizes that is just a little bonus.
Warm up: You need to warm up before the competition. You should warm your muscles up with something like jumping jacks (50-100) and then start to loosen up your muscles and joints.
Some yoga or stretching is always a great idea. Make sure you at least focus on stretching out your hips, fingers, forearms, and shoulders, but it would be best to do a full body stretching routine.
Preview: Once the comp starts you need to walk around and look at the routes. You should go around and circle the top 5-8 routes that you would like to have on your scorecard.
Easy routes: Ok so you put your shoes on and are ready to go, now what. I suggest that you jump on 2-4 routes that are easy for you. This always help me to relax and loosen up my fingers.
Crack some beta: A great thing about being at a comp is that there are several people trying to climb the same routes as you. This is an advantage because you can watch and see what is working and what is not working on the route.
These people can help you climb a route much faster and without wasting a ton of time and energy.
Take you time: Most competitions last for 3 hours or so and you only have to complete 5 problems. This is important to recognize because a lot of climbers end up getting pumped out after about an hour or an hour and a half.
You need to rest accordingly. If you need to climb your top 5 problems that means you should be completing one problem every 35 minutes or so.
Eat and Hydrate: Staying hydrated is really important during a comp you should be drinking water and so...
So you want to know how to build a rock climbing wall, right?
Good, let's get started.
Building a rock climbing wall can be a great way to get a workout and prepare yourself for climbing without having to get out of the house.
Many climbers use their home rock climbing wall to build strength and to train. Home walls are so great because you don't need to have a climbing gym near by to climb and train.
There are four steps you need to follow to build a rock climbing wall.
Planning your rock climbing wall. During this step you will decide exactly what you want out of your rock climbing wall.
Do you want the wall inside or outside? What shapes, features and size do you want your wall to be? You will also want to begin drawing out the type of wall you want and begin to develop an estimate of how much your wall is going to cost.
Designing your wall.
During the design you will begin to calculate exactly how much the wall will cost and exactly what supplies you will need. The technicalities will also be worked out here.
You will begin to figure your specific cut angles, your framework, joints and other important features of your wall. You will also need to clear any technical problems that may arise. Here you will need to decide what kind of effects the elements will have on your wall if it is outside.
Will your wall suffer from being rained or snowed on?
One way to sustain the life of your wall is to use marine board. This is more expensive but if you live in a rainy area, you will find the board to be well worth it.
The fun part of building your wall. If you enjoy building this will be the best part of building your home rock-climbing wall. The reality of your wall will slowly come to life through this process.
Is the finishing of the wall.
We're not quite cranking the holds on just yet, but we're getting close. This phase involves the finishing of the wall surface, paint, and applying texture.
You will also need to consider what your fallzone is going to be. Are you going to have padding such as mattresses or gym pads?
After you build a rock climbing wall, you can begin to crank your holds on and build your routes.
If the wall is outside, be prepared for your bolts to rust over. If you don't plan on rearranging holds very often, you will typically not have much to worry about.
If you do want to move holds around, it may be difficult unscrew them once they have be...